Tuesday, July 11, 2006

CROATIA… Cycle, Cruise & Land Tour

The Dalmatian coast is littered with over 1000 islands and has some of the best cruising in the Mediterranean. We started our cycle & cruise on an ‘Old Timer’. These Old wooden boats have been in families for years being passed down from father to son. We set sail out of Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik is a delightful walled town, with great restaurants where you can enjoy local cuisine and fabulous historic monasteries, palaces, museums and old buildings. Now restored following the damage from shelling in the Siege of Dubrovnik in 1991-92. UNESCO has granted Dubrovnik World Cultural heritage status as one of the world’s finest examples of a fortified medieval town.

We leave Dubrovnik and sail towards the forested island of Mljet. We cycle this National Park which has 2 beautiful salt-water lakes. On an island in the larger lake we visited the Monastery of St. Mary, built in the 12th century and still used today. There is a wonderful serenity to this area.

Next stop is Brna on Korcula Island, this area is little-visited and traditional part of the island. As we leave town on the coastal road, we work our way to Prizba and to Grscica where a swim cools us off. Then continue to the town of Blato, which contains buildings associated with the patron saint of the town, St Vincenca, including All Saints Church. Historic buildings abound including the baroque summerhouse "Castle Arneri" in the centre.

Korcula Town - is a wonderful walled town, with its red terracotta roofs, stone cathedrals and winding roads. We cycled west along coast-hugging road with fabulous views across to the Peljesac Peninsula, we passed by tiny fishing villages and peaceful bays and inlets on our way to Racisce a delightful bay where we had fabulous chocolate cream cake and pivo. Later that evening we went to Lumbarda to do wine tasting and in particular to taste the famous Grk white wine and have a chance to taste the local cheese and olives – fabulous… Not to be missed is the performance of ‘Moreska’ dancing – unique to Korcula.

Sudurad on Sipan Island is the largest of the Elafiti Islands. It is a rich fertile region where grapes, figs, olives, citrus fruits, carob and pomegranate grow. In the 15th century the elite of Dubrovnik built residences here, the best know being Sorkocevic’s or Duke’s Palace in Sudurad. We cycle to Sipanska Luka, which is a picturesque little town on a bay where we sat sipping something cold and watched an exciting game of bocce ball in this sleepy almost forgotten little corner of Europe.

We end our cycle portion in Cavtat (founded by the Greeks in the 3rd century BCE) where we cycle the Konavle valley. Cavtat is a busy tourist town, but once outside of the town we cycle through the Konavle region, an area rich in traditional and folklore, where local people can be seen farming in a way unchanged for many years. We had a fabulous lunch, the meat was cooked slowly under a clay pot.

Now onto the land portion – leaving Dubrovnik we drive and take a ferry to Split via Peljesac peninsula with its many vineyards and along the Cetina river and gorge. Split is a great seaside town with lots of great restaurants and a wonderful promenade with ‘watering holes’ to sit at and watch the world go by. A walk around the cellars and courtyards of the Roman palace of Diocletian is a must. Recommend to take a guided tour, very informative.

We leave Split and head deep into the mountainous hinterland of Croatia to Plitvice Lakes, the first and most beautiful National Park in the country. We spent a fabulous time hiking the trails, following the 16 crystal-clear lakes on their dramatic descent over 92 travertine barriers and waterfalls. Then, following scenic country back roads, we make for the northern Dalmatian coast and ferry to the lace-making island of Pag also known for its cheese – Pag Cheese (similar to parmesan, but softer).

After a morning walking the streets of the Old Town of Zadar we follow the twisting Dalmatian coast road south, pausing at the picturesque coastal towns of Sibenik and Primosten en route to Trogir. Give yourself time to explore the delightful town of Trogir with its narrow alleys, hidden squares and plentiful cafes. We end our tour here….

Some helpful tips – tap water is drinkable throughout all of Croatia. The Croatians currency is the Kuna – you can change euros for kunas at any bank in Croatia, however if you need to change in the reverse or have other currency you must go to Exchange offices. The Exchange offices are sometimes hard to find and the hours can be a little unusual. ATM’s are available in all the towns and cities and are easy to use.

Canadians don’t require a tourist visa just a valid passport (must not expire for 6 months after your return date) also there is not an entry/exit fee. Keep in mind that the infrastructure (main roads) is minimal and what you think might take just an hour to drive will take double that, so don’t be in a hurry.

1000 islands dot the coastline, but only 65 are inhabited, so makes for a sailors dream come true.

Towns become really busy in July and August, so if you want a vacation that is not too busy with tourist go in June, September & October. The Adriatic is a beautiful aqua colour and so clear and by late summer the water is really warm. Remember to bring aqua shoes because the pesky sea urchins abound.

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