TURKEY …

Istanbul is a combination of the old and new. The new area of Istanbul is very cosmopolitan and modern while the old area is as the name says small streets, little unknown hotels quaint but also changing in character to be more modern. This is where we stayed, in a small wooden hotel called the Pina. It was a great location because we could walk to The Blue Mosque and Sophia’s Palace and also the Grand Bazaar. These 3 sights are not to be missed. Make sure when you are in the Grand Bazaar not to miss the Spice Market. Brace yourself to be hassled by the shop keepers and also be ready to haggle when you purchase something. The sights and sounds of Old Istanbul are amazing. The Call to Prayer 5 times a day, the carpet hawkers, street vendors, people trying to have you hire them as guides are all a little intimidating at first but you quickly get used to it. Don’t be afraid to be forceful when you don’t want to be bothered or are not interested in what is for sale, it is all a game.

Izmir is a modern bustling city with a wonderful promenade and cafes. We stayed here only a couple of days. Took a bus south from Izmir to Dalyan located on the Aegean. The 6 hour bus ride was great, we were served sandwiches, drinks and had a host go around with an antibacterial hand wash before and after we ate … what service!

Our tour started in Dalyan where we explored Greco-Roman sites, many of them off the beaten track and rarely visited. We took a small boat through reedbeds (which was like working your way through a maze) to the ruins of Caunus, an important city circa 400BC. We climbed to a high point of the Citadel , the panorama was spectacular, overlooking the reed-beds all the way to the Aegean Sea.

If you want some beach time, take a boat to Iztuzu Beach, perhaps one of the best beaches in Turkey. The water is warm and the sand is wonderful. Also there are change rooms and a restaurant.

The number of ancient ruins in this area is unimaginable. Most are not even touched as yet, left to decay on there own (not enough money). We stopped at many of these ruins and were just blown away. At the ruins of Alinda, a place where time stopped at the close of antiquity and now seems to be part of a lost landscape. Olive trees are growing in the ancient theatre, cows graze everywhere and yet you can still see the theatre and rows and rows of seats and outer buildings. Situated on a rocky hilltop close to the village of Karpuzlu, this was Ada’s capital; and she built a wall around her city in circa 344BC. She welcomed Alexander the Great who in turn rewarded her with the governorship of the Carian region. Our next stop Didyma, where the Temple of Apollo held an oracle as important as the one at Delphi, in Greece. The massive columns have fallen. Here there is a wealth of intricate carvings indicating the power of the cult of Apollo. Then onto Miletus, where the 15,000 seat theatre is evidence of the city’s importance in Greek and Roman times. Miletus was situated on a harbour in ancient times but gradually silt totally filled in the area which caused people to abandon the city because there was no long easy access to the sea, now the area is very rich farm land. We arrived at the smaller & more picturesque site of Priene perched on a hillside overlooking the Menderes (ancient ‘Meander’) valley. This Ionian city was untouched by the Romans so gives you a vivid picture of the scale and layout of a typical city of the 4^th century BC. In viewing all the above ruins we were the only ones there (16 in our group including guide). We stayed in Selcuk, with its prominent Byzantine fortress and remains of the huge Temple of Artemis, once considered to be one of the seven wonders of the Ancient World, but sadly totally destroyed. We got really spoiled with only ourselves at these incredible sites.

We visited the great Greco-Roman city of Ephesus, once visited by Mark Anthony and Cleopatra, and also by the evangelist St. Paul (which inspired the Epistle to the Ephesians). A lot of money has been spent excavating at Ephesus and the reconstruction is fabulous. Be prepared for huge crowds. After being spoiled with the other sites it was hard to take the crowds, try and get there as soon as it opens and be prepared to spend at least ½ a day. Leave the crowds of Ephesus to be greeted with more crowds at Pamukkale (‘frozen waterfall’) with its warm mineral pools. High on an escarpment Pumukkale has been an attraction since Roman times (as Hierapolis, a health spa). The view overlooking the Menderes Valley is so peaceful. We arrive at the ancient site of Aphrodisias late afternoon. This is one of my most favourite sites, the late afternoon sun turned the columns golden and the small theatre had a very personal feeling about it. The city was also renowned as an artistic centre. The athletic stadium is one of the best preserved from the classical world.

We leave behind the wonderful ruins and thoughts of ancient times and head for the beautiful Taurus Mountains where we will hike from village to village staying in homes of the villagers for the next 5 nights. On average we walk 6 – 7 hours each day. The homes vary from being quite modern to very quaint, but we did have hot water every night for a shower. Which felt absolutely fabulous after trekking on dirt trails, over rocks all day. The food was basic but tasted great – ‘hunger makes good kitchen’. Some of the homes we shared room with 6 people others with 2 so you can’t be modest!!! The villagers and farmers we met on our trek were wonderful. So kind and generous and wanting to share what ever food they had. They are very hard working and at times we wondered how they grew any crops at all on the soil they had to work with. What a fabulous way to get to spend time with the locals. Winding our way down to meet the bus we rounded a corner and there below us was the most spectacular bay with a gulet anchored and the sun sparkling on the water it took our breath away. Wouldn’t have missed this hike for the world..

Ended our journey with a week on a gulet – just 8 of us. Oh, what fun, to be on a 25 metre wooden boat that was fashioned after the old style fishing boats. We had a captain, cook and a general helper. We sailed from one wonderful cove to another, swam in the beautiful clear warm waters of the Aegean, ate, sipped, slept under the stars and just enjoyed. A fabulous way to end our unforgettable journey to Turkey, would recommend this way of travel to everyone.